Below is a list of the questions that we get the most. If this web site and this list of questions still haven't answered yours, please feel free to e-mail us!
Q: I messed up a sleeve with my ring tool. Its a really good engine and i was wondering if you could fix something like this?
A: Yes, in almost all cases we can fix over compressed sleeves. As part of our normal resizing process we will also ensure the taper is rebuilt on your sleeve which the ring tool does not provide.
Q: I'm just writing in reference to the resizing tool. What's the difference between the $478.00 one and the 45.00 one. I run .12, .15, and a .21 which one will I need and do I need any thing addl. than what comes with the kits? (I have a good vernier for the depth).
A: In review of your e-mail questions the other day we see now you were referring to the $45 "C" Clamp resizing tool available on Ebay. It works in the same principle and you would get the same results as with $6 through $10 ViseGrip pliers tool. RayAracing resizing tooling provides accuracy. A very mild and even distribution of molecules in sleeve alloys, resulting in a very even reforming of sleeve cylinder. The difference is night and day. The guy from Ohio makes claims to have tried that ring like clamp tool before. We never would. There's methods of resizing requiring no tooling. Just won't perform well and for long.
Q: Can you explain to me how this works and how it helps?
A: First, look at the product that is being shipped to you and you will feel a slightly tighter piston to sleeve fit . My procedure improves P&S seal that in turn builds compression. Compression = Power. Also, the engine will idle better at higher temps due to the improved seal @ TDC with no blow by.
Q: I have an OS CVR .12. Do you resize this engine?
A: Yes, we actually get questions like this all the time asking if we pinch a certain engine make/model. We resize ALL manufacturers .12 though .27 car/buggy/truck engines both 1/10th scale and 1/8th scale.
Q: I have a couple of engines that have some time on them. How do I know when it is time to send them for resizing?
A: Leading reasons would be blow by conditions not allowing engine to idle properly and also causing the engine to have a tendency to stall and flame out once it reaches operating temperature. This is an example of a bad seal at TDC. You should feel at least a slight physical pinch while rolling the flywheel with finger pressure past TDC without the glow plug in engine. Next would be observed loss of power / weak engine due to loss of compression from poor piston to sleeve fit/seal. A good designed fit will show an increase in tightness as piston pass porting windows illustrating a taper lead through to Pinch point @ TDC. "Compression makes Power". Inspecting Piston & Sleeve set out of case. If by finger pressure you could push the piston past the top sleeve (even slightly) it is need for RESIZING.
Q: I noticed that you said "If found necessary, we also polish out the "minimal" sleeve liner scratches and remove piston burring." I was under the impression that any contact on the sleeve in this sort of manner (removing material) would destroy the sleeve, and make its life span much much shorter. Correct me if I'm wrong but if there's any "minimal" scratches/scuffs/pits than the sleeve is basically useless even if pinched. Also by removing material doesn't that alter the piston and sleeves match?? How is this fixed?? I have sent many sets to OSrocket which I've always had good luck with their work, but the pinch is just so tight especially with a set that still has OK compression. I've got to replace the starter wheel in my box every other break-in with this, kinda gets spending after awhile.
A: Pistons develop burring especially at top edge diameter and if not removed will contaminate engine, causing damage. Slightly damaged sleeve liner surface finishes can be polished out. I have a very nice procedure just for that. It works very well on an engine acquiring slight dirt contamination needing "shallow" scratch removal. Surface finish and designed fit do work hand in hand here. There is far much more that can be improved with surface finishes than you had impression. I have a racer in NY that ran a mismatch piston from one engine and sleeve from another then resized with my methods. It ran well over 3 gallons fuel usage last season and I believe will run the complete season next year. The minimal de-burring of piston and easy sleeve liner polish I may do is done prior to compressing sleeve. To be honest with you most of my customers prefer tightness in resizing. I really try to accommodate them for the improved longevity and still have the ease to the starter box. It's a fine line my friend.
Q: How long will this last on my Novarossi MT 12 engine? Is it just like a new piston and sleeve?
A: 2 Gallons fuel usage and up depending on how you run it. Personally as a racer who like strong performance out of my engine, i will TWEAK my P&S set after the 2 Gallon mark. Your average basher can get 4 gallons when the engine is properly cared for. The average sleeve is resized (compressed to smaller OD & ID) 0.0003" to adjust for normal piston wear. In short, the only difference between resized and new is that a resized P&S set is 1/3 of one thousandth of an INCH smaller. Note: A human hair measures 0.002"